Ok so it's Monday after Fashion Week and while I am positively spent, I will keep my word to do a week long review of the events, etc etc. (But be warned my sass has fizzled. I can't even hang with myself right now. )
Today's focus is on the overall direction of the collections for Fall 2010. Certainly feminine touches and even glamour (You know I'm a Glamor Whore!) are playing a large role in the collections. Rather than being overtly sexy, the clothes for fall will be romantic, nostalgic and feminine in a more sophisticated and charming manner. The Vixen seems to be missing this fall -- she only ducked her head in a few times -- with many Designers relying on a more natural feminine beauty that is heavy on draping and gorgeous fabrics versus shocking statements (of course with the exception of the few "statement" lines such as Richie Rich, etc.). In general the Fall 2010 will bring in a much more dressed up, sparkling feel -- but in a very comfortable, come-hither manner. Even the very dressy, suited collections had a sort of relaxed, laissez faire mood about them -- and I approve! Looking elegant from something that looks like you just "threw it on" -- this is a challenge that seems to have come directly from Master of Ceremonies, Tim Gunn himself -- and the Designers all seem to be taking it on full throttle! Happily, many of these looks actually improve on a more curvaceous figure!
Many lines seemed to have been inspired from movies of a certain age, hearkening back the Old Hollywood Regency sort of feel. Fur and Leather work were highlighted throughout many of the lines with the makeup palate seeming to diverge from the pop pastels we will see this Spring into simple nude tones with a stronger red/cola lip. Hair is kept simple, long and straight -- with low-side ponytails and 1940's waves in place. Christian Siriano's show certainly got my award for Best Hair. The Aveda Team did a miracle on these models! Their hair looked polished, glossy and enviable -- and whose hair but a model's is more prone to overworking and damage? I say Aveda might have something magical in their toolbox.
Colors are by and large relying on a palate of Navy, Black and Jeweled Autumn Tones of Bronze, Periwinkled Purple and of course a few brighter reds, fuschias, teals and PLAIDS! The pairing of Navy and Black can be tricky but what I learned this season is that if the Navy is on the side of a blackened sort of cobalt, it can certainly work -- and actually serves to carry of an Art Deco effect. Winter Whites were also seen throughout more than one line, but is carried through in the clothes as a sort of sophisticated detail versus feeling as one is wrapped in the color entirely --the exception being that Costa used this color to a beautiful engorging effect in the Calvin Klein Women's line this season and I love the coats particularly! BEAUTIFUL! Caramel Bronze was also seen in more than one show -- showing up in Mackage in their amazing leathers and wools and then in the satins and silk of a variety of other designers... brown has taken on a much richer hue for the fall and I couldn't be more thrilled about that -- as I am ever so tired of seeing the same old bittersweet chocolate brown. The infusion of warmth into what can often be very dulling, Fall's palate serves not only as nice refresher of the Autumn Hues but will also prove so much more flattering on many of we humans, the wearers of such garments.
Trends:
Great BIG Belts: Think wide and cinching -- paired with pants, skirts & dresses these wonderful accessories were everywhere on the runway --and are capable of giving even the most challenged a waist!
Shoulders/Clavicles: One of my most favorite parts to the female form, I am happy to see them highlighted in many of the evening looks. Off the Shoulder sweaters, asymmetrical dresses -- get ready to flash your delts this fall!
Opaque Colored Tights: Yep, colorful legs are in! With the shopping economy remaining a bit standoffish, many Designers found this a clever way to make a statement without making the entire outfit a one season fling! Keeping the actual clothes versatile and wearing a fun leg will prove a favorite his fall! Kid Sister TAVI takes it even further and wears 2 colors on her legs!
I'm not sure what more to write here-- by now all the collections are on the internet, and well after spending 8 days chatting about the validity and originality of the concepts and clothing BLAH BLAH BLAH -- just how original can we be 2,010 years AD? I'm not saying there was nothing original but for me I could care less if something is original - I'd rather have beautiful! I mean have you heard of the Artist who exhibits a vivisection of horses and other animals as art? THAT'S ORIGINAL, PEOPLE! but I don't want to look at it!
Anyhoo, I can't seem to clear my brain right now ! I'm at the bottom of the Fashion Press Bowl -- and as such I spent my time running from one show to another -- sort of half starry eyed, running through Wonderland like Alice -- and well, a pant is a pant is a pant! Spending the entire 8 days in the tents I missed out on a few of the more "bold star" collections such as Rodarte who everyone just raves and raves about -- but when I saw it on screen I was like "Oh, ok, its cool but I'm not wearing all of that!" I missed The Olsen Twins -- who I've heard both Rants and Raves about; some people hated & others loved! Could it be possible that these two could be talented with fashion?? It may not be the first assumption we make about them based on their previous exploits, but I for one know that it can sometimes be a very twisted, winding road to our Chosen Endeavor of First Choice (will I EVER work in Ballet?!)
Definitely, I am feeling that all of my readers MUST check out my most favorite writer (maybe even my most favorite almost acquaintance here in NYC! -- she took my picture with her friend's bunny rabbit and by week's end I think she recognized my coat!) Lynn Yaeger I think is much more suited to the more detailed observations! Read an excerpt of hers below-- how can I not love a woman who is trying to get me a gift bag? LOVE HER!
“Somewhere in the air between Disco and Punk lives a woman boiling with youthful revolt but distinguished by unexpectedly classic style,” read the program notes at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Ya think? I find it hard to believe that this simmering creature, assuming she exists, wants to flounce around in Lim’s giraffe-patterned pantsuit, but maybe I’m wrong. One thing I do know: For all this blather about youthful revolt, Lim is keeping alive one of the most offensive and ridiculous traditions of Fashion Week: giving gift bags to front-row attendees only. Newsflash — these privileged people don’t need any more free stuff. Far better to have left those sacks on the seats in the last row, where a present really means something. (from www. nymag.com's Lynn Yaeger, Author)
More tomorrow -- hopefully more 'original'; likely not!
Love Love!
Madame B.
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