RUBY'S / $$ 219 Mulberry Street (bet.Prince & Spring)
212-925-5575
http://www.rubyscafe.us/
NY Mag: Critic's Pick
Yelp: 4 out of 5 Stars
Mdme. B.: Damned Good Grub
It's the Weekend. In January. In NYC. The sun is brightly dancing about, so much so that I ended up rising a full hour before I had planned to hit snooze. What to do? What to do? After having been home-bound for what seems like 2 weeks due to colder than cold temperatures, this little break in the weather makes it the perfect day for my favorite thing ever... walking about Soho.
Soho is an acronym for South of Houston Street (pronounced house-ton in these parts). Formerly a neighborhood known to be a hot spot for upcoming and down trodden artists, it has now more than fully metamorphosed into a formidable luxury shopping district, complete with cobblestone streets, windows to drool over, and plenty of boutiques that only Europeans can afford. With rents reaching some of the most expensive in the city, it serves a perfect tableau for an aimless walk on a Weekend Afternoon, where you can engage in one of New York's best sports: gawking. Everywhere you look you will find hoards of Warhol fashionistas trying their darnedest to look like they are not trying. Mismatching an ever so careful array of woolen accessories, this is perhaps the most likely place in America to see Gisele Bundchen strutting about in her PJ's and Uggs, making you wish you hadn't bothered to get out of bed. Yes, the Soho Species is Camera-Worthy. and Tall. and Skinny....KISS MY GRITS!
So after jaunting about the streets for 45 minutes or so you should be well prepared for the accompanying pains, with ankle pain from twisting your ankles on those cobblestones in heels being first and then stomach pain to follow, a tell-tell consequence of viewing far too many Ectomorphs. Duly, as I will investigate more fully as the year progresses, my answer to all pain? FOOD! Which poses the next and more poignant question for today's column: Where Do I Eat in Soho?
Here is the thing: there are a ton of cute little spots to dine in Soho. Many of which have numerous models strewn about for decor and pricey menus based on Eggs Florentine. Some come with white table cloths and many have secret ashtrays where you can discreetly deposit your silt from your too chic to inhale habit. And of course there is Balthazar's, which if you are craving Bouillabaisse or a Croque Monsieur, forget this review and head there immediately! But for me, every time I find myself stranded with hunger pains in this little microcosm of NYC, I find myself thinking Pasta, Burgers, Grub! and for this, there is Ruby's.
Ruby's has the best short menu I've seen , with the perfect choices of Pasta, Burgers, Salads and Panini's. Australian owned, you can also be sure to have at least one or two diner's who are drool worthy, like they've just landed here for a moment's rest from their world surfing tour. Almost always you will be accompanied by someone from England as well, not sure why, but every time I've eaten here, there has been at least one Londoner in the house. You will also feel incredibly cramped. The space is tiny... the kitchen a coat closet...the bathroom...don't even bother. Please be advised that it is best to duck into a bookstore to use the restroom before you get here. Also be advised that in tune with it being Australian owned, the waitstaff is, well, otherwise obliged... and not aiming to please in that "you must be important because you are in Soho" sort of way. There is no ass-kissing. But if you can be bothered to raise your voice and relax a bit, you will have some of the most satisfying, comfy foods ever.
First, the Pastas: Their Creamy Chicken pasta is just delicous... creamy...artery-clogging...divine. Then there is their Spicy Sausage Pasta.... equally delicious leaving you to wonder "how do they make that sauce?!!!!" Then there is the Shrimp pasta -- and the Veggie Pasta -- and the Grandma Ruby's Bolognese! All of these are simple creations made in a tiny one burner kitchen, served in big ol' white bowls that you wish were a bit wider... but boy are those bowls deep. You get well over your fair share, so rest assured that you will not leave hungry.
Then, the Burgers: This is really where they show their Aussie Chops... creative as can be, with a mildly spicy sort of chili ketchup, and trimmings that you wouldn't think of right off the bat, my favorite might just be the Whaley where they add a fried egg and a pineapple to the mouthwatering beef burger -- my only complaint being the $2.50 needed to add in avocado (if you so choose).
My next favorite thing on the menu is their Salads, which are a full meal's portion. Almost every Salad I've tried I've adored and my best advice is to go with a friend and share a salad as an appetizer (not however guaranteed to come out first) and then get a pasta or burger to boot. Both the Tuna and the Apple Procuitto Salad's are my favorites. If you really want the Salad as your only meal get Tuna Salad, or for the adventurous taste bud, try the Pumpkin Salad and add Chicken (for the same $2.50 as the avocado, mind you!). The carmelized balsamic is just so caramel-tasty-yum!
They also offer standard fare panini's (I'm sorry, I'm a bit over panini's right now and I have my favorite guy over in the East Village park for that, but they are not bad by any means), and of course an array of breakfast treats including eggs, oatmeal and buttermilk pancakes (with carmelized plums!).
Overall I recommend this place without hesitation but you must know what to expect. This is a local's spot ...where you would eat if you live in Soho (or technically, it's in Nolita) and want to hang about with friends. The food is meant to satisfy in the manner of going to a good friend's place who happens to be an amazing short-order chef! It's not meant to impress tourists or cranky shoppers who are demanding everything now, right this minute, right away! It's casual -- not just in dress but in feeling and attitude. It's Aussie! So, relax, Mate, and go have some damned good grub!
Eat Up & Eat Well!
Mdme. B.
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